Since today’s trek was relatively short we got some extra time to get ready in the morning.   For the first time this trek I was actually asleep when they came with the tent tea.  For breakfast we had scrambled eggs,  apple pancakes and porridge.  We headed out on our trek and climbed up to a ridge where there were some great views in all directions.   We then carried on to a plateau area where there were a couple of small lakes.   The lakes reflected Kang Yangtse, the tallest mountain in the area at 6,400 m.  Managed to get some photos while we rested.  We then carried on along a plateau,  seeing lots of pica running around.  Arrived at camp around 12:30 or so and had our warm lemon drink.   The camp is located in a high altitude field where no one lives permanently.   In the summer,  shepherds bring their sheep,  goats and dzos (cow yak cross).   Once the others arrived we had lunch in the tent.  The sun was shining and it was quite warm until a cool wind started to blow.   For lunch we had Nepalese donuts,  potatoes with garlic and onion,  some kind of parsnip type vegetable with a tofu sausage and soup.  I felt pretty good despite the high altitude of the camp. After lunch relaxed in my tent and debated about going on the 1.5 hour acclimatization walk.   Got dressed and prepared to go and went out to meet the others.  The cold wind was blowing and I thought the warm tent sounded better so I was about to bail when one of the others in the group said we could always just go up a bit.   I ended up going and we ended up going all the way to the top, which did have some impressive views is Kang Yangtse.  Climbed back down and had some tea with cakes and biscuits.  Then took bit of a break before dinner.  Dinner was early tonight at 7.  The temperature definitely had s dramatic drop the moment the sun started to go down. Went from having just a shirt on in the tent to putting the fleece and wool hat on.   For dinner also wore my down jacket and felt somewhat warm.   Dinner was chicken soup,  which helped warm us up,  chips,  cauliflower, pasta and warmed pineapple in syrup for dessert.   Played a few rounds of cards and then we all headed to bed as our wake up tea will be at 6 tomorrow and our final day will also be the longest and have us cross the highest pass. 

Woke up this morning at 6:30 and packed up my stuff and got ready.   We had breakfast of porridge, boiled egg and a Swiss roll type thing with dried fruits and nuts.   After breakfast we set out, up a hill to Markha village and the monastery.  We carried on through more impressive landscape until we reached a monastery high up on a steep hill.  Climbed to the top and got some good photos of the surrounding area.   Then made my way back down.   We then carried on and stopped for tea at a nice tea tent.   Had some tea and then continued on.   Lots of great scenery and colors.   The wheat is golden yellow, there’s green grass, red rocks and the blue sky.  Another fairly warm day today.  We then came to a river area where we had to cross the river with our wet shoes.   Went fairly smoothly!   Later on I came to another river, unsure of which way to take as there was a path upwards, which appeared to be blocked by 4 donkeys, a path across the river and maybe some room alongside the river on the rocks.   The guide was up ahead trying to motion the correct choice but it was to far away to see.   He ran over and said the part alongside the river was the way.   Made it through and carried on.   Came to another section where we were creeping along a very nartow, soft and crumbly ledge above the river – definitely the scariest part yet!   Managed to make it across and to the lunch spot at an eco cafe.   Had our lunch and relaxed before carrying on to visit a school in the area.    We then carried on up a steep hill to an area where there appeared to be another monastery further up on a pinacle.  May have just been ruins so we didn’t stop there.   Carried in through some farm fields and had a dicey river crossing over some rocks.   Got a foot wet but managed not to fall in!  Carried on more until we reached our camp site,  which, again, has some impressive views. There are also a number of pikas (little groundhog type animals that live in holes in the ground).  I had spotted another one earlier but it was a different type.   Spotted two standing up wrestling on the way into camp and managed to get a photo.  Set my sleeping bag up and then took some photos of the sunset.   Played a bit of cards before dinner.   For dinner we had tomato soup,  rice with vegetables,  green peppers,  some other Indian vegetable and dal.   We then had apple fritters for dessert.  Played more cards after dinner and am just getting my blog done now at 10:20 – the latest night on the trek so far.   Time for bed! 

Woke up this morning around 6, a bit before the tent tea wake up call set 6:15.  Got my stuff organized and cleaned up before the breakfast gong.   Had some toast,  Indian bread, rice pudding and cheese omelet for breakfast.   As we were getting ready to go I noticed my camera battery was dead,  changed it with the one in my day pack,  which was also dead.   Managed to run to my tent and get a couple spares from my main bag.   Very glad I checked the camera as today is supposed to be one of the most scenic days!  We headed out of the campsite and into the Markha river valley.   The scenery was stupendous and one could barely walk 10 feet without wanting to take more photos. The sun was very strong and I remembered at a stop to put some sun screen on my hands as I think they got a bit of a burn from yesterday.  We carried on through the valley,  up along the banks of the river on little paths cut into the sides.  We stopped for a tea break at a nice tea tent with a big green lawn.   Had some tea and relaxed for a bit. We then carried in for another hour until our lunch stop at another tea tent.   This one was also nice although there were a number of wasps flying around, which seemed to get worse after lunch when tea was served.   We had some soup,  mixed peas and potatoes,  a cheese slice, some Indian bread and some beans.  After lunch we carried on through the valley.   There was a bit of a scare when a herd of blue sheep, high up on the ledge, started some rocks falling, one which landed not far from me as we were backtracking.   Luckily our guide noticed the dust high up on the cliff and had is go back.   After the herd moved on, we carried on winding up and down alongside the river.  Crossed a few dodgy looking bridges, which were often in some kind of weird angle.   They seemed stable enough… and were better than having to take off our boots and wade through. I saw a number of little lizards -1 managed to get photos of the green ones but the orange and yellow one was more elusive.  Finally arrived in our camp which is surrounded by the valley sides.   The Markha village is above our camp, which we will pass through tomorrow.   Had our tea outside on the grass and relaxed for a bit.  For dinner we had chicken soup,  papadom, pizza,  chips,  cauliflower and a salad with carrots, cucumber and tomato.   There was some fruit salad for dessert.   Played a few rounds of cards and then headed to bed to write up my blog.  Lengthy walk today but the scenery was amazing.   Time for bed now as tomorrow sounds like it will be a long day as well.

Woke up to snow on the ground of the camp this morning.   Woke up about 15 times during the night to go to the washroom but, surprisingly,  felt well rested and was up and getting prepared at the tent tea wake up call time at 6:30. As we were having breakfast the snow started again so everyone was dreading the crossing of the Ganda La pass.  We headed out in the snow, which was probably better than rain as at least it can be brushed off.   The route to Ganda La followed part of the acclimatization walk we did yesterday before turning up towards the pass.   It actually wasn’t too bad hiking in the snow.   I was in the middle of the pack and managed to beat out ponies to the top.   Could definitely feel the heart pounding the last stretch.   The views from the top were amazing and the weather on the other side looked much better.   While we waited for the others in the group to finish we did a bonus climb of a little hill at the top of the pass that took us to 5,000 m.  Climbed down and we were still waiting for the others so thought about doing the other hill,  which was also about 5,000 m but turned back after going up a bit as it was much steeper than the other hill.  The others finally arrived at the top and we saw them briefly before starting our decent,  given we had been up there for some time.   The views on the way down were beautiful – so many colors!  We descended to a village area at the bottom, past which was our lunch stop at a Tea tent.   Had some onion soup,  bread,  cheese and curry vegetables.   We had waited for quite some time for the others but finally ate when it appeared that they would be some time.   Just as we were getting ready to leave they showed up.  We left while they got ready to eat.  The last 2.5 hours to the camp was through some spectacular river gorges with colorful rock walls.   We crossed the river a number of times but fortunately the water level was low and we could just cross on the stones.  Once we exited the canyon we crossed through to another river valley and walked a short distance down a road to our camp site at Skiu.  The camp was shared with others and was not as spacious and private as our past camps.  However,  the toilet (I.e. hole in the ground) is probably a slight step up and more easily accessible.  Relaxed for a bit until the others arrived – they had made better time than before.   Set up our tents and had dinner,  which was tomato ginger soup,  noodles with vegetables,  curried eggs,  eggplant and potatoes.  After dinner some of us played a few rounds of cards and then I headed to bed to write up my blog and get some sleep as we have an earlier start tomorrow.  Felt good today and enjoyed the long walk. 

Woke up before the wake up call and tent tea and started getting organized.   Had my tea, which was super hot and ended getting spilled in my tent.   Washed up and got my stuffed packed up and then headed for breakfast.   Had some eggs, toast, porridge and tea.  We began trekking at 8:30 and started heading up through a river valley.  The rock formations and colors were amazing – lots of purple rocks with copper and some teal blue colored rocks.   Felt pretty good trekking until we got to the tea tent where we stopped for lunch – felt a slight headache.   After lunch of Indian bread,  green bean and vegetables and cauliflower and potatoes, we headed the last bit up to our camp.   Some spectacular views from the camp and my tent looks directly to some mountains.  Felt the headache still. After setting up our sleeping bags we went for an acclimatization walk to the top of a ridge at about 4,600 metres.  Along the way we saw some hares and marmots.   The views from the ridge were very impressive and we even had a couple of flakes of snow fall.   We then headed back down to our camp at around 4,400 metres.  When we arrived in camp we had tea with cakes and biscuits.   Felt better initially after the walk but started to feel the headache again and felt an bit nauseous after the cakes and cookies.   Had some time before dinner so went to the tent to take an Advil and have a nap.   Slept well and woke to the dinner gong.    For dinner we had vegetable soup and papadom, momos (yum! ), French fries and cucumber salad, which I opted not to eat.   Felt much better after the nap.   Was raining while we ate but stopped after dinner.  Headed back to the tent to write my blog and get to bed as we have a long day tomorrow,  crossing our first pass. 

Woke up this morning to finish my packing and prepare for the trek.   Started to freak out when all the stuff I laid out last night to pack wouldn’t fit in my trek bag.   Went for breakfast and sorted out the packing afterwards.   Managed to get everything I needed into the bag in time to meet the group at nine to catch the jeeps to the starting point. The jeep ride was about 1 hour or so and then we got out and prepared to start walking.   The trail followed along a river, surrounded by rocks on both sides.   The colors were amazing – reds,  oranges, greens,  purples, brown, gray and the brilliant blue sky.  We crossed the river,  which was fairly low looking,  twice by bridge.  We came to a tea tent where we ate the boxed lunch we were provided,  which included a banana,  a boiled egg, a boiled potato,  a chocolate bar, a pineapple juice and a cheese and vegetable sandwich.   Also included were little packets of salt and pepper.   Bought a wool stuffed snow leopard.  The camp was right next to the tea tent so we got our tents and the ponies arrived with our bags.   Set up our sleeping bags and then went out for a short acclimatization walk to the village of Rumbak.  We had some tea there – I went for the yak butter tea, which was quite tasty,  although I think I was the only one in the group that actually liked it.   After the tea we walked to a stupa where there was a great view of some various mountains and hills.  Off to bed now as I am feeling tired.  Wake up tea is at 6:30 tomorrow. 

Woke a few times in the night but woke up at 6:20 feeling pretty good.   Had a nice warm shower – apparently the hot water can be sporadic, like the wifi here.   Went down for breakfast and had some fried eggs,  toast,  porridge and herbed potatoes.  After breakfast we got in our jeeps to head out to Shey Palace, which was where the royal family of Ladakh lived a few hundred years ago.   The palace was perched on a hill so we climbed up,  taking the rocky back way as it is apparently right to go clockwise up.   Our local guide was the group leader from last year’s trip to India,  Chosphel.  We walked around the palace, which does not have much left now but the views from the top were impressive and the clouds were beginning to clear, leaving extremely blue skies. We then headed down and walked across a field to Tiktse Monastery,  which was also situated on a hill.  The walk was pleasant and easy,  apart from the fact I had to take a leak.   Glad I wore my sandals as we had to cross a large puddle.  I had no problem and just walked straight through.  We finally came to the Monastery, where I was able to use the bathroom.   The Monastery is very impressive looking with the buildings cascading down the hill,  similar to the one in Tibet.  Since the monastery normally closes at lunch,  we took the jeeps up and went through the various buildings,  including the kitchen and dining hall where the monks were eating lunch.  After,  we headed down to the bottom,  where there was a restaurant where we had lunch.   Most of us opted for skuye, which is a thick vegetable soup with gnocchi looking dumplings in it.   It was very tasty and much needed. We then headed back to the hotel.   A few of us went to get water and go for a drink for my birthday since the monastery restaurant didn’t serve alcohol.   We went to a nice place overlooking the main bazaar, which didn’t appear to be able to legally serve alcohol or maybe just not before dinner.   Therefore we were served our clandestine beers in tourist looking Ladakh mugs and were required to keep the bottles on the floor.   Was quite humorous how the beers we served in coffee mugs and the hot teas and coffees were served in her glasses.  After our beer we got some water and headed back to the hotel.  Had a quick briefing shortly after getting back and then headed for dinner in town.  While it was warm during the day, once the sun went down,  it really cooled off.   I had some mutton momos and egg fried rice for dinner,  which was way too much.   Then the restaurant staff brought out a birthday cake for me,  with candles.   It was a chocolate cake and was good.   After a good dinner and day, headed to bed as was exhausted. 

Despite having went to bed at 2 am I managed to get up around 8 or so.   Got ready and went down for breakfast – some toast, fried eggs, potatoes, grilled fish and a donut.   While I was eating I think I spotted a few potential people from the group. Lounged around the breakfast room and then confirmed the group briefing time and went to the pool for a quick swim.   The pool was nice and definitely made the heat very pleasant.  As I was leaving the pool I met Julia from the UK, who was also in the group.   After a brief introduction I went up to change and told her I’d be down in a bit.  Got changed and went down to the bar for a beer.   Met Julia in the restaurant and chatted and then met Cheryl, who is sharing her room.   We then met some of the others in the group for the briefing.   The 3 that were on the organized flight had had their briefing earlier and there was apparently one more coming in later.   The other 2 were Kevin (from Scotland) and Danny (from London).  The guide Ranjeev mentioned that a couple had canceled last minute.  After the briefing the 5 of us went to have lunch and chat in the restaurant.   Then Julia and I went to the pool and the other 3 went sightseeing.   The pool was nice and we ran into Steve, who was on the group flight and who’d been posting on the group Internet board before the trip.   After the swim had a quick shower and then met Julia in the bar.   Danny joined us after they returned and then we met the other members of the group – Chris (from Australia), William (from the UK), and Jouni (Finnish from the UK).  Chris was apparently the one who was to arrive later but she had actually arrived the previous day.  We went for dinner to the same place I had gone last year.   I had some lamb kebabs and paneer parantha.   After dinner we went back to the hotel and Julia,  Danny and I went for a nightcap (water for Julia and I as we already had a few beer).  Since our flight over the Himilayas to Leh leaves at 5:15 am and we are leaving the hotel at 2:30, we called it a night at 9.  Typing this up now and heading to bed for a brief sleep before the 2am wake up call. Hoping that the wifi will be working in Leh so I will aim to post more tomorrow, including more photos.